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1 Printing
Broadly there are six styles of fabric printing, viz.: - Direct Printing - That in which the design is printed direct on the cloth and the colour afterwards fixed by steaming. Dyed Styles - The fabric is first printed with a mordant and afterwards dyed in a mordant dye. Another method is to treat the cloth with a mordant throughout and then print with an acid which discharges the mordant where desired, leaving white where acid was printed. Discharge Printing - See Discharge Prints. Resist Styles - See Resist Printing. Block Printing, by hand. Screen Printing -
2 Calico Printing (Machine)
The printing of textile fabrics is done in four general methods or styles (as illustrated) namely: - Direct Style - The printing colour is applied direct to the cloth and is afterwards fixed by steaming. Dyed Style - The cloth is printed with a mordant and afterwards dyed in a mordant dye, which dye is only taken up where the mordant has been printed. Or the cloth is dyed with a mordant, and the mordant discharged where required by printing with acids, then dyed with colour, leaving white where the acid is printed. Discharge Style - The cloth is first dyed then printed with a chemical to discharge the colour and leave a white pattern or a dyed ground. Resist Style - The cloth is printed with some chemical, then dyed, and where the cloth has not been printed it is coloured with the dye, the printed portions do not take up the dye
Dictionary of the English textile terms > Calico Printing (Machine)
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3 Seersucker
CRINKLE, or SEERSUCKEROriginally a silk fabric with flat and puckered stripes alternating across the fabric. Now applied to cotton dress fabrics of the better quality crimp styles, woven 32-in. wide in many weights. Two beams are required, one for the crimp stripes and one for the ordinary. One cloth has 72 ends and 72 picks per inch, 2/60's and 30's warps, 32's weft, super Egyptian yarns (see Seersucker) ————————SEERSUCKER (See Crinkle)This term is common in the U.S.A., and given to a plain and crimped stripe fabric either bleached or dyed, and used for drapery and furnishings as well as dress purposes. A common quality is made 40-in. wide 64 ends and 64 picks per inch, 26's warp, 20's weft. Woven from two beams in stripes of plain weave and crimp which is also plain weave. The plain ground ends are firmly weighted and the crimping ends are lightly weighted. Fancy designs are obtained by using colour or rayon in the warps. Another class of seersucker is made from a plain cotton cloth that is printed in stripes with a preparation that will resist the action of caustic soda. The cloth is passed through a concentrated solution of caustic soda and the imprinted part shrinks. The effect is that of crimped stripes.
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4 Thornproof Tweed
Scottish woollen fabric possessing very hard wearing qualities used for sports wear. Made in many weights for both women's and men's wear, in 58-in. width and usually plain weave. Yarns in two colours 32 to 40 skeins for the lighter makes and 18 to 24 skeins for the heavier two-fold styles. The term appears to have been used first about 1870 when in the Red River Rebellion (Canada) the troops were clothed in a cloth made to resist the thorns.
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